[Firehawk]

Here's some great initial study material....

http://compass.seacadets.org/pdf/nrtc/an/14014_ch5.pdf

Go down to page 5-15 and you'll find eduation on wiring.

First, gotta start with a set of drilled out bolts. If you have a hex-head bolt, it can be drilled across one way, two ways or even three. One way is more than sufficient.

This is titanium. Titanium is not fun to drill. Try to buy pre-drilled if you can.

 

[Firehawk]

Next, cut off a length of safety wire from your can. Make sure you have enough wire...nothing sucks more than to put a bunch of work into a wire job, and find out you don't have enough to get the job done. Too much is never a bad thing.

Place one end of the wire thru the bolt head.

 

[Firehawk]

Bolts SHOULD be wired in a TIGHTENING motion. This means the wire is going to travel clockwise around the bolt head, "pulling" it tight. Run the other end of the wire around the outside of the head, and down to meet the other end of the wire.

 

[Firehawk]

First off, I use safety wire pliars. The best and only way to do wire. It can be done by hand, but it's time consuming and inaccurate.

When using pliars, you need to figure out where to place them on the wire, so that when the twists are complete, you have a free strand to put thru the opposing bolt head AND you don't have any slack in the wire running between the bolts.

Keep in mind, as you twist the wire, it will get SHORTER in length. You need to clamp the pliars on the wire JUST PAST where the hole is; closer to the hole for a shorter distance and farther past the hole for a longer distance.

The tip of my finger marks where I'm going to clamp the pliars.

 

[Firehawk]

As you clamp and twist, use your other hand to keep the free strand over the top of the bolt head. Sometimes, it may slip off, and you'll tighten right thru it (ie, start over again).

 

[Firehawk]

Twists complete. 6 to 12 twists per inch is the standard. I usually do about 10.

 

[Firehawk]

Now....here's a trick that comes right out of aviation....

As you can see, the loop running thru the bolt is still a bit loose. You DO NOT tighten up that loop by twisting the wire more. Here's what you do:

Instead of twisting the pliars along the axis of the wire, make a large loop with them, so that you don't TWIST the wire, but actually wrap the wire tighter at the bolt head. It's hard to describe, but you end up making a large loop with the ass-end of the pliars. Here's a few pics, and I hope you get what I mean...

 

[Firehawk]

Now your wire is ready to thread thru the opposing bolt.

Take one of the ends, and feed it thru the head. Ensure that the OTHER end goes around the bolt head in a tightening fashion. Clamp the pliars, pull tight and twist.

Repeat the same tightening method I described in the last post.

 

[Firehawk]

Once tight, snip the end. I usually leave 3 to 4 twists free. Take the pliars, and twist the end in towards the bolt head in a curving motion. This will ensure that your 'pig-tail' doesn't snag on rags or cut up your hands.

 

[Firehawk]

Done.

 

[Firehawk]

Here's a couple of tips and ideas...

You can wire more than two bolts together. I wire my front axle and pinch bolts together, since I'll probably be loosening them at the same time to change a wheel. This is where it gets critical to leave yourself enough wire.

Also...if the wire lays over a part of the chassis/caliper/ect, it's a very smart idea to run the wire thru a length of silicone tubing to keep the wire from digging/chafing into the metal.

Hope this helps.

 

[R1 MASTER]

Nice write up. :thumbup


Ride safe.

 

[Wicked1]

i read this on sbf and ill say it again nice details man...makes me wanna do it to my street bike:lol going for realism with the rossi scheme:lol

 

[rorlow]

damn . . . you got that down to a science :yes

I'm still mastering zip-ties & silicone :rofl

 

[KWComp]

Mark, What brand Banjo bolt is that on your rear caliper? Looks bad azz...I want some :blush

 

[Firehawk]

Mark, What brand Banjo bolt is that on your rear caliper? Looks bad azz...I want some :blush

Mettec....titanium

Think the link is in the exotic thread.

 

[HD1911]

Hey Firehawk...i am gonna be racing Wera Novice this year...what all will i have to Safety Wire...does it state in the WERA Rulebook?

 

[Firehawk]

Hey Firehawk...i am gonna be racing Wera Novice this year...what all will i have to Safety Wire...does it state in the WERA Rulebook?

Yes it does....it will state everything your bike needs to be in compliance with, and in great detail. If you don't have one already, snatch one up!

 

[HD1911]

^^^ Hey thanks Mang! I am just really intimidated on safety wiring, never done it before. And im freaked about drilling tiny ass holes in my stock bolts...can you just purchase a complete pre-drilled bolt kit for everything thats required??? if so, where?

 

[Firehawk]

^^^ Hey thanks Mang! I am just really intimidated on safety wiring, never done it before. And im freaked about drilling tiny ass holes in my stock bolts...can you just purchase a complete pre-drilled bolt kit for everything thats required??? if so, where?

you CAN.....but they're VERY pricey, and if you're racing next year, tires, gas and performance mods should be your focus. Besides, OEM steel bolts are a BREEZE to drill. Some are so soft, you can drill 'em on the bike with a hand held electric drill. Preferrably, you'd want a drill press with a nice clamp for holding your work. Take then out one at a time, and drop the holes. Easy. :yes