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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
These are a new brand of levers on the market that are in competition with CRG, Pazzo, ASV, Titax and a few others.

Brake Lever

This is a simple swap. Initially you start of with your existing brake lever, which (hopefully if you've set up your bike for yourself) should be in the correct position for your height and riding position.



Simply remove the bolt which is holding the lever to brake master cylinder. This should simply require a nylon nut to be removed from the underside of the lever, while the bolt is being braced using a flat-head screwdriver.. Be careful, as if you drop the nut, you may have a hard time searching through the fairings, air-box, engine to find it again. Remove the existing lever.



All you then have to do is put on the new lever, line up the holes, push through the bolt, and re-install the Nylon nut. Make sure that there is sufficient lubricant to keep the brake lever operating smoothly.



Lever upgrade completed. It will give you a slightly smoother operation, as will as giving you quick adjustability to move the position of the lever closer or further from the bar.

Clutch Lever



Firstly you will find that you are going to have to remove the two plugs for the switch on the underside of the Clutch lever, this is so that you will have access to the nylon nut on the bottom of the lever. You will also have to loosen the lever mount on the bar, to be able to twist the lever around to easily see what you are doing.

Next you will be required to increase the Lever free play using the silver clutch lever adjustment bolt (See your user manual) until the cable is as loose as possible. Align the gap in the back of the lever and the adjuster bolt and test if you can remove the cable from the adjuster bolt. Hopefully you can.

If there isn't enough free play, you will also have to loosen the clutch cable at the crank-case. Please refer to your manual for your particular bike.



Once you have the free play, you should be able to remove the 'hammer' and cable from the clutch lever.

Once this is removed, you can loosen and remove the nylon nut, again being careful not to lose it in the fairings engine etc. Once the bolt is removed, remove the lever.



From the original lever, you are going to have to remove a small spacer in the bolt hole of the lever, and put it into the C-n-R Lever. Re-grease the surfaces of the lever and mount ready for installation.



Place the lever into the lever mount, and re-align the holes before inserting the bolt. It is positioned correctly when it becomes flush with the lever mount. Replace the nylon nut and tighten.

Then, ensuring that the gap in the lever and adjustment bolt are aligned, first place the small 'hammer' on the end of the cable into the associated gap in the lever, before running the cable back down the aligned gaps within the adjustment bolt.



Re-tighten the clutch adjustment at the crankcase.



Re-tighten the clutch free play adjustment bolt at the lever, until you have the desired free play as shown within your owners manual.

Finally, get on your bike, and reposition the angle of your clutch lever to that which is comfortable for your riding position. Tighten the mounting bolt until the lever doesn't rotate around the bar.



Congratulations, you can now quickly adjust the distance of your clutch lever from the bar itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Quite different from the Pazzo's and similar to the CRG's. Pazzo's don't have the bearings that the adjuster rolls on to make the operation smoother, while the CRG's and C-n-R's do have this bearing.
 

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Nice write-up however, you will NEVER have to loosen the lower cable adjuster to get enough slack. All you have to do is pull the cable like you are trying to remove it then squeeze the lever. When you release the lever *BAM* - now you have slack and your cable pops right out of the lever. This is quite simple, will work every time, and the only adjustment you will have to make now is at the lever.
 
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