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B A N N E D
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well ladies yesterday i got the tensioner, so today ill be installing it. i did try to fit it last night and i had to :hammer the crap out of it.
i will be on the process of sealing the whole tonight and installing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yeah the adjusting is what gets me all scared, by any chance would you know how tight the chain is with out a tensioner, should it have a lot of play or what?? im trying to find out so when i adjust the new one i dont Fuc Up my motor :yes
 

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APPALACHIAN-AMERICAN
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hmm, interesting fact I didnt know before...from the APE web site
IMPORTANT: WHEN REPLACING ANY HYDRAULIC OEM TENSIONER WITH A MANUAL TENSIONER, IT IS IMPORTANT TO BLOCK OFF THE OIL PASSAGE THAT SUPPLIED THE OEM TENSIONER. FAILURE TO DO SO COULD RESULT IN A LOW OIL PRESSURE SITUATION.




I couldnt find an exact spec for the Yami's, you might have to call them if the instructions dont say. I am guessing its going to be about a 1/4 " of slack required though. Best bet is to call them and see what they have to say, they will probably have some advice for you on the best way to block that oil passage too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
hmm, interesting fact I didnt know before...from the APE web site
IMPORTANT: WHEN REPLACING ANY HYDRAULIC OEM TENSIONER WITH A MANUAL TENSIONER, IT IS IMPORTANT TO BLOCK OFF THE OIL PASSAGE THAT SUPPLIED THE OEM TENSIONER. FAILURE TO DO SO COULD RESULT IN A LOW OIL PRESSURE SITUATION.




I couldnt find an exact spec for the Yami's, you might have to call them if the instructions dont say. I am guessing its going to be about a 1/4 " of slack required though. Best bet is to call them and see what they have to say, they will probably have some advice for you on the best way to block that oil passage too.
- jb weld to block off
- it says 1/4 " back off once tight. now tight by hand or with a tool, thats what i dont know. how much pressure should i put before i back it off 1/4 "

No idea. My guess, some will go back, some wont, and some will split there time.
i think im going to split my self :lol
i like the smilies in this forum. :rofl
 

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APPALACHIAN-AMERICAN
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Dont tighten down with a tool!!...just snug it up to the chain, probably need a wrench on there, but when you feel it getting some pressure that should be good. JB weld scares me in an oil passage like that but if thats what they say then it probably works. Just make sure its as clean as possible.
 

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APPALACHIAN-AMERICAN
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yep, Youll know when its tight, probably best if you have the valve cover off so you can check the chain, that way you know when its tight and your not stretching it.
 

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No, the true benefit of a manual tensioner is that it maintains a consistent tension on the cam chain under both engine accel and decel giving a more consistent cam timing. And in the case of High compression pistons and aftermarket cams, helps limit the possibility of the pistons hitting the valves due to said cam timing variability.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
No, the true benefit of a manual tensioner is that it maintains a consistent tension on the cam chain under both engine accel and decel giving a more consistent cam timing. And in the case of High compression pistons and aftermarket cams, helps limit the possibility of the pistons hitting the valves due to said cam timing variability.
like i always say you learn something new every day
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
how much pressure is running through that hole that i have to seal, does anyone know. im also scared that the epoxy may drip down. any ideas on how to put it. i have some but ill take opinions. :yes
 

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yes, but the gsxr's fail often and that's why most install them...not have to replace it again and no worries of it failing. With yamah's i don't think it's a huge issues, but with gsxr's the cam chain tensioner fails more often...the ape is nice as you have no worries. Also if you're already in that area, why not...
 
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