Oil Change for Yamaha Wave Runner/PWC 4-stroke Engine - Yamaha Forum : Your Yamaha Motor Products Community & Resource
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-11-2010, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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Oil Change for Yamaha Wave Runner/PWC 4-stroke Engine

End of Season or Beginning of Season Oil Change for Yamaha Wave Runner/PWC 4-stroke Engine

I have written the below procedures for changing the oil on either a Yamaha VX Cruiser 2007 or Yamaha FX Cruiser HO 2006 or any Yamaha 4-stroke PWC. I used the same oil and filter on both PWC’s as recommended by my local dealer.

1. Tools/Items Needed Before Starting:
a. Flat head screw driver
b. An old plastic one gallon milk jug
c. Permanent Black Marker (Sharpie)
d. Kitchen Measuring Cup
e. Mechanic’s Gloves for protecting your knuckles from cuts
f. A box of Scott “in a box” Rags (paper)—used to catch oil drippings under the oil filter, wipe up oil mess, wipe hands, and cleanup tools
g. Rubber Adjustable Grip Wrench (like you would use to take off slightly tight can lid or oil filter) used to remove oil filter
h. Motor Cycle Size Oil Filter Wrench (normal car size is not appropriate)—used to remove oil filter if Rubber Adjustable Grip Wrench doesn't work
i. Motor Cycle Engine Lubricant SAE 10W40 (approximately 3 quarts for 1 PWC is what you need; this is not the same as car motor oil)
j. Hiflofiltro Premium Oil Filter (HF303)
k. A Hand Oil Exchange Pump (has 2 hoses and the pump chamber; like $12 from an auto parts store)
l. Enclosed Blitz 6 Quart Oil Drain Container—used to eventually take the oil away to the garage to expose of; should be enclosed type so it does not slosh out on your vehicle
m. Small funnel—used to pour new oil in without spilling on the motor
2. Biggest Errors You Can Make and Should Avoid:
a. Starting the engine with the oil well dry…. this will seize the engine and ruin it
b. Over filling the oil well causing oil to splash up into the air filter area destroying the air filter
c. Contaminating the oil well with water or debris
d. Damaging the oil filter by applying channel locks or other tools that end up bending and possibly busting the oil filter canister
3. Prepare Milk Jug to Measure Old Oil:
a. Wash out the 1 gal. milk jug and dry off outside
b. Using a black thin permanent sharpie marker and a kitchen measuring cup, pour in 1 quart of water, let the water settle, then mark a line to show 1 quart. Continue until you have marked where 1, 2, and 3 quarts are on the jug
c. Then dump out the water
4. Know Where Things are Located on the PWC:
a. The Oil Fill Cap. The oil fill cap is easy to find since it is a black cap on top of a silver box (the oil well) near the rear top of the engine (it is the most obvious cap on the top of the engine). You will see the typical “drippy oil symbol” on the cap or beside the cap to ensure you that you have found the oil cap
b. The Oil Filter. If you have a 3-seater PWC and if someone was sitting in the second seat position (mid-seat position) facing forward and their feet were directly below their hips in the foot wells, then the person’s inner left foot ankle bone would point toward where the oil filter sits inside the hull
5. Check Current Oil Level:
a. Take the seat off the PWC and set it out of the way
b. Start the PWC and let it run for about 20-30 seconds (no more or you can damage the engine) then stop the motor
c. Remove the oil cap and clean off the dip stick with a rag
d. Screw the cap back in, then remove again and look at the dip stick
e. Ideally you want the oil level way between the minimum line and the full line; you absolutely do not want it completely full or ever over full; over full means there is a great chance you will blow oil into the air filter and damage it costing several hundred bucks to fix
6. Pump Out Old Oil:
a. Get the milk jug ready and the “hand oil pump” ready
b. Put the intake hose of the “hand oil pump” into the oil reservoir; Put the output hose of the “hand oil pump” into the milk jug (it is nice to have help holding the jug so it doesn't flop over)
c. Begin pumping out the oil; best case you will draw out between 2 quarts and 2 quarts of old oil; when you think you have gotten most of the oil out, ensure the intake hose is going straight down into the oil reserve since it has a center pipe that holds the last of the oil you can get to
d. Take note from observing the markings on the jug how much oil you drew out; also take note of where the old oil had came up on the dip stick during the initial oil check; if the oil had came up mid-way between the minimum marking and full marking on the dip stick and you just drew out 2 quarts of oil then you definitely want to put back only 2 quarts or maybe even a little less
e. Now that you have noted how much oil you removed, pour the old oil from the jug to the Blitz container to eventually haul away to the local garage for disposal
7. Change Out Old Filter for the New Oil Filter:
a. This is the hardest part of the job typically!!! You may have to temporarily remove the big 3-4 inch diameter black hose at the front left of the engine or other hoses to reach down to the oil filter with your hands… use you judgment here. Yes, a normal human can reach it. It gets a little easier if you can stand on something to give you more height and reach. Typically the best approach to reaching the filter is to stand on the right side of the PWC, lean your chest over the top of the engine with your face close to being directly above the filter, and reaching in from the left to get to the filter or reaching in from both the left and right to get to the filter.
b. Using the Rubber adjustable Grip Wrench, slip the rubber band of the wrench around the oil filter to where the handle of the wrench points towards the rear of the PWC and you plan to pull up on the wrench handle in order to turn the filter in a counter-clockwise direction in order to remove it
c. Hopefully you can remove the filter using the Rubber adjustable Grip Wrench. If not try the Motor cycle size oil filter wrench to turn the filter (Don’t try a regular car size oil filter wrench--- this wrench is too big)
d. Note: The filter should have been put on hand tight (as tight as a person can turn the filter using one or both hands). If you work and work in an attempt to remove the filter and cannot get it to move after say 30 mins., I would recommend at this point that you stop, pack up everything, and drive the PWC to a place where there are certified PWC mechanics on staff. Then ask if they can come outside and help you loosen/remove the filter. Remember if they completely remove it oil will spill into the hull so have rags positioned first. I think it is well worth $20 to have a professional do this verses doing something crazy yourself or pulling your hair out (give them $20 even if they say no charge… good to be honest and build rapport). The problem with newly purchased PWCs is that you just never know who put the filter on the last time and whether it was done hand tight (the right way) or torqued on with a wrench (a big mistake).
e. So let’s say either you got the filter to start to turn or the mechanic got it to start to turn… place 8-10 rags under the oil filter (between the filter and the hull) to catch oil drippings
f. Continue to unscrew the filter; as soon as it comes off tilt it up so the oil inside stays inside
g. Slowly bring the filter out avoiding spills, and then throw away the old filter in the garbage
h. Get out the new filter and using a little dab of the new oil on your finger, moisten the rubber gasket on the new filter all the way around
i. Now screw the new filter back on the engine… should easily turn once you get it started
j. Hand tighten the oil filter into position; hand tight here means as tight as you can physically turn it with your hands; NEVER use a wrench to tighten… this is a big mistake that will cause you headaches next season
k. Mop up all the oil that spilled out on the bottom of the hull
l. Remove all previously placed rags and any tools left inside the PWC
m. Replace any hoses you may have removed in order to reach the oil filter
8. Pour in New Oil:
a. Remembering how much oil you extracted and how much oil was on the dip stick during the first check, use the funnel and pour in the new oil into the oil fill well.
b. Note 1: The goal is to get enough oil in the well so that following the motor running a few seconds, the oil level when measured by the dip stick is way between the minimum fill line on the dip stick and the maximum fill line on the dip stick.
c. Note 2: So let’s say you had checked the oil during the first check and it had came up way between the minimum line and full line (the end state goal) on the dip stick and you had removed 2 and quarts of oil during the oil extraction as measured on the side of the jug, then first put in 2 new quarts of oil in the reservoir, then put the oil cap back on. Then start the engine and run for 20 seconds before stopping so the oil gets spun up into all the crevasses in the motor. Then open the oil cap, wipe the dip stick off, then put the cap back on, then again remove the cap and check the level on the dip stick. If you are at way between the minimum line and full line (the end state goal) on the dip stick then you are good to go… don’t put any more oil in. If you are at like way between the minimum line and full line (below the end state goal) then consider putting just a little more oil in and then do all the above stated dip stick checks again to verify reaching the way point. If you end up at way between the minimum line and the full line or even greater like past the full line, then use the oil extraction pump to remove some oil from the oil well to get back down to the way point (the end state goal).
d. Remove all previously placed rags and any tools left in the ski.
e. Replace any hoses you may have removed earlier
f. Clean oil off motor parts/hoses where any spilled
9. Check Oil After First Session Ride about 5 mins. into the ride to validate all is still good. Seek help from a professional mechanic if in doubt

Good Luck!!!
Nathan G.
Lake Norman, North Carolina

Last edited by nathang; 04-11-2010 at 12:34 PM.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-20-2011, 07:22 PM
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how to change oil instructions

Great steps! Thanks, super helpful.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-26-2011, 08:19 PM
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I bought a used 07 last year. The seller supposedly had the dealer do all the maintenance. I used it last year and really never kept a check on the oil.

I just pulled it out of the garage today and after reading your post I decided to chage the oil. I checked the level on the dipstick and it just barely reached the tip of the dipstick, so I'd say it was low.

I bought a pump to remove the oil but really never got a chance to use it.
I tried to get my hand on the oil filter with a wrench and was sucessful so while I had my hand in there I removed the oil filter first. Well, I think all the oil ran out through the oil filter section because when I tried to pump the oil out there was done. I shined a flashlight on the oil tank I saw no oil.

It it safe to assume the tank is empty? There oil all over the inside of the hull which I flushed out with the water hose.

Any 10w40 motorcycle oil good to use? I prefer synthetic oil. I saw some Mobile 1 synthetic motor cycle oil today.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-26-2011, 08:50 PM
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http://www.jetski.com/article.cfm?id=689

looking at this the VX cruiser requires 1.14 gallons of oil.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-22-2012, 04:24 PM
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Where is best bet for buying oil for yamaha 4 stroke?
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-16-2012, 07:47 PM
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Oil change

Agree with others these are great steps for changing oil in a Yamaha 4 stroke.. Did our two today and these were right on the money.
Thanks
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-18-2014, 09:57 AM
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I think that*this information is*the best.

Last edited by Apple98; 10-19-2014 at 02:07 PM.
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