No-Hassle FJR1300 Oil Change
Changing the oil on the FJR1300 is easy. The 17mm drain plug and oil filter are positioned such that no bodywork needs to be removed to do this routine maintenence procedure. Doesn't get any easier than that! However, this is a trick to making this procedure a little less messy, and another tip on how to ensure a bone-dry, leak-free drain plug: correct crush washer oreintation.
Avoiding the mess:
As seen in the drawing below, when you unthread the old oil filter, some of the oil (shown as orange) unavoidably drips down the engine case and runs over the lowest part of the fairing (small leg of bodywork underneath the oil filter). Invariably, some oil also finds it's way onto the exhaust line, too. So the owner has a little bit of a mess to clean up; you definitely don't want oil collecting in the bodywork crevices!
The trick to a clean FJR oil change is as follows:
Using a 4mm allen wrench, remove the one large fastener that retains the bodywork immediately under the oil filter.
Take a square foot of aluminum foil, fold it in half, pull the small leg of bodywork away from the engine and slide it over the little "leg", wrapping as depicted by the yellow line below.
When all the oil has drained away from the filter mount, and you've installed a new filter and completely wiped clean residual oil in adjacent areas, slowly slide of the aluminum foil to the right, as depicted by the red arrow
Reinstall the large allen-head fastener to the lower leg of bodywork. Voila! No oil to clean up!
Crush Washer Oreintation:
While most owners know they should replace the crush washer when changing oil (or rear end fluid), many are unaware of the correct orientation when installing these crush washers. The crush washer is supposed to be a "one-time use" only, and indeed I have seen a lot of seepage on many differrent FJRs whose owners don't replace these washers, or install them incorrectly.
As you an see in the photo below, the new washer one the left has a "flat" side (that it is lying on in photo), and the other side has a more rounded, slightly raised side to it. It is *that* side that goes against the head of the drain bolt; the "flat" side goes against the engine case. The bolt head flange "crushes" the rounded part as it is drawn down to torque specs and that is what makes the seal leak-free and seepage-free. The old, used washer on the right is oreinted the same way as the new washer, and you can see how the bolt-head flange has "crushed" flat the rounded portion of the washer. Factory torque specification for oil drain bolt: 31 ft-lbs.