I wanted to know if the extended warranty is worth purchasing?

i dont think so

Not if you do your own maintenance on a timely manner.

ok, that's what i thought

Nearly any extended warranty is a waste of money. The only exception would be if you got a laptop, then it's good to have if it's also a replacement coverage in case of breakage.

:cool good to know

They sell them for one reason...the odds are in their favor. Odds are you won't need it or else they wouldn't sell it :) or the odds are it won't cost as much you paid to fix whatever. It's your call but i've never bought one personally on any vehicle or anything.

Here is the theory behind ext warr's:

If some thing is going to break:
1. It is going to break early, therfore it will be covered under the manufacturer's warr.
2. It is going to break after it's serviceable life...i.e. after the extended warr. expires.

A very small percentage of items (all product types) don't follow this model. So they charge you extra $ to warr. a time period that statistically has the lowest chance of having a claim.

Here is the theory behind ext warr's:

If some thing is going to break:
1. It is going to break early, therfore it will be covered under the manufacturer's warr.
2. It is going to break after it's serviceable life...i.e. after the extended warr. expires.

A very small percentage of items (all product types) don't follow this model. So they charge you extra $ to warr. a time period that statistically has the lowest chance of having a claim.:imwst i mean its like $1800 for one for a bike right. shit you can b uy another motor with low miles for that.

Do your own maintance and if you have basic knowledge you'd be better off without out paying the extra money.. odds are....

thanks for the input guys

I have never purchased one or had the need for one so far. Knock on wood. :hammer:hammer:hammer


Ride safe.

i think the Yamaha warranty is not that high.. heard some people buying online for cheap.. like $400 or so. dunno what they cost now, but i thought it was like $7-800. if u use it once it pays for itself. tho its just like insurance. hope u never need it, but its good to have. plus could help sell bike later if it has warranty. but i would never buy warranty that wasnt the yamaha YES brand. aftermarket warranties are not that good and usually cost more.

bought one for mine $700 for 4 add'l years. better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. i've been pretty lucky with ext. warranties on all my vehicles,toys etc.. and have gotten more out than i paid for them.

bought one for mine $700 for 4 add'l years. better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. i've been pretty lucky with ext. warranties on all my vehicles,toys etc.. and have gotten more out than i paid for them.you have been lucky, or maybe unlucky haha i have had them and never needed them

you have been lucky, or maybe unlucky haha i have had them and never needed them

most people wont if they take care of it and keep it out of the weather. but after 4 years of sitting outside, the electronics can take little punishment. any of the sensors are over $100 and high priced ones like ECU are almost 800$ or so. really its just a safety net. with few bearing problems with 04-06 and few 07's... thats about $4k job. we have 07 in shop now with nice 3 inch hole in block, that yamaha is paying for. it spun bearing and i guess guy kept riding it till it windowed the block. so new cases, 4 new rods, 1 new piston, and whole set of other parts plus labor... it can be expensive.

most people wont if they take care of it and keep it out of the weather. but after 4 years of sitting outside, the electronics can take little punishment. any of the sensors are over $100 and high priced ones like ECU are almost 800$ or so. really its just a safety net. with few bearing problems with 04-06 and few 07's... thats about $4k job. we have 07 in shop now with nice 3 inch hole in block, that yamaha is paying for. it spun bearing and i guess guy kept riding it till it windowed the block. so new cases, 4 new rods, 1 new piston, and whole set of other parts plus labor... it can be expensive.
damn. i try and take care of my bike(04)r1 but its a race bike so oil is changed etc about every 200 miles. no problems yet knock on wood.

most people wont if they take care of it and keep it out of the weather. but after 4 years of sitting outside, the electronics can take little punishment. any of the sensors are over $100 and high priced ones like ECU are almost 800$ or so. really its just a safety net. with few bearing problems with 04-06 and few 07's... thats about $4k job. we have 07 in shop now with nice 3 inch hole in block, that yamaha is paying for. it spun bearing and i guess guy kept riding it till it windowed the block. so new cases, 4 new rods, 1 new piston, and whole set of other parts plus labor... it can be expensive.

gotta love genesis motors.

let me guess, cylinder #3 with the hole eh?

gotta love genesis motors.

let me guess, cylinder #3 with the hole eh?.

yep.. #3 with 3 inch hole. entire wrist pin complete was in oil pan. didnt touch head.. dont know how, but valves didnt hold liquid so they orderd them as well. first 07 ive seen with problem, but several 04-06's
rod broke in funky ways. it broke in 1/2 but not normal way. one half of rod with bolt still hold top and bottom 1/2 together.. cept it didnt have other half of top or bottom. it would not have killed it if guy would have stopped when it started knocking.. but he kept riding it from looks of it. entire pickup was full of bearing material.... if it did knock rod out in a hurry it wouldd not have to all that stuff in pickup.

I haven't seen it yet on an 07 either. But I've seen many many older ones like that. This is usually how it goes tho, couple months of seat time without a problem, and then they start coming in.

depending on how the rod-knock started, it might have all been over before he knew what was going on. I mean if it clacked and he shut it down, but didn't pull the clutch, let the slipper do it's thing. It'd be torn apart by the time he got to a stop.

My question tho, is why is it always #3?

we all agree after looking at it.. he kept riding it and not just pulled in clutch. yamaha told us to look for clutch fibers in pickup first.. if so they wouldnt cover it. he had clutch replaced at another shop. then rod went out and took it to another shop out of state. that shop was told by yamaha if it had clutch particles in pickup... no coverage. then he picked bike up and took it to us, which is out of state as well. it didnt just have little.. it was crammed packed with bearing material. why #3?? has to be design and path of oiling system. or cranks on #3 are machined and tolderances are not spot on, which i cant see. #3 seems to be bad spot on lotsa bikes. have zx12 in my shop now with #3 dead..but guy didnt change oil very much.. looked like tar. so i would guess its oil pressue drop in system and #3 takes it hard. first batch that we saw of 04 spinning seemed to be around 5k miles. some were not abused.. one guy was over 50 years old and his went out. but i have gsxr that was dragraced and only has 1200 miles in my shop as well that killed #1 bearing. its an 06 model. guess i need new friends that dont spin rod bearing and want me to fix them.. LOL

I notice that the genesis motors are always #3, it's gotta be a design fault.

#1 makes sense, it's got the most torsional load, but #3 has nearly the least. it just doesn't make sense to me. I saw a bunch of those 04's aswell, same thing. Even the early ones there was a few with windowed blocks.

wish i knew more of why. but its not limited to just R1 motors. read few R6 motors doing same thing, as well as busa, zx12 and others. so something catastrophic in oiling system or bearing clearances or oil pressure that cause it. cant see it beeing bad bunch of cranks or rods, as different ones on some bikes dont have problems. but really prolly one of most common trait these motors have is path of oiling system. motors vary in bore, stroke, compression, but side drive cam chains, and oil pathways are about the most similar in all motors. i might get service manuals out on few models and see if this is as true as i suspect. but then again... why do some fail and others not?? cant be abuse.. as mentioned some older guys have ridden bikes and not hammered on them like others do. im not easiest on motors. so far only broke one cranshaft on old 1340 gsxr motor. crank snapped in 1/2 at #2.. didnt even mark up rod. clean break. no new rods.. just new crank and had rods(carillos) checked. thats weak spot on old gsxr stroker cranks.

the old GSXR cranks where pressed roller bearing too wheren't they? Was supposed to be an inferior design, but I don't buy that, had a lot less thirst for oil. The real reason was it was an extra process on the assembly line.

A couple of the Yamaha's that I saw it was an issue with undertorqued conrod bolts from the factory jarring things loose. Probably shouldn't discuss this on a public forum tho.

gsxr were plane bearing crank. the old gs were roller bearings, which like they run in prostock. tho new busa motor is supposedly in works to replace old GS motors. it was suppose to be out late this year, but never made it. suppose to be billet piece made by suzuki, with suzuki part #, but only bought thru vance and hines. so all suzuki teams will have to buy from them when there out. but there not quick to jump on new stuff, FI was allowed, but no teams currently running it in suzukis field. some tried but carbs worked better n 60ft. tho FI made more power, but didnt have hit at drop of clutch like carbs.

talking to yamaha svc rep, pretty much the rod bolts on 04-06 R1... are pretty much not reusable, and reliable. was quietly told that if i took them apart on my dragbike, to replace them. tho we havent seen any problems with ones here in shop. u would figure bolt not torqued properly would find way to break or come loose sooner than later. as i said most of ones i saw were with 5k miles on them or more.

Ya you're right, it's the GS that I was thinking of. Hmmmm, maybe it was overtorqued. Seems it's not a tough enough bolt for the application anyhow, those eggs are heavy on the upstroke. That's one crappy part of 4-strokes, they've got an upstroke without an air spring to support the thing from the other side.

I found the same thing when I was drag racing with carbs vs FI, but if I was doing it again, I'd certainly go with FI. For 60' times it might not make a big difference, but the lack of at track tuning time means there's a lot more time to worry about other set-up issues and not just jetting all the time.