well ladies yesterday i got the tensioner, so today ill be installing it. i did try to fit it last night and i had to :hammer the crap out of it.
i will be on the process of sealing the whole tonight and installing it.

Nice, let us know how you like it. One will be included in my build this winter. :fact :mrgreen

yeah the adjusting is what gets me all scared, by any chance would you know how tight the chain is with out a tensioner, should it have a lot of play or what?? im trying to find out so when i adjust the new one i dont Fuc Up my motor :yes

I ll have to look it up, I thought you tightened em down snug then backed it off 1 turn. gimme a minute to do some checking.

hmm, interesting fact I didnt know before...from the APE web site
IMPORTANT: WHEN REPLACING ANY HYDRAULIC OEM TENSIONER WITH A MANUAL TENSIONER, IT IS IMPORTANT TO BLOCK OFF THE OIL PASSAGE THAT SUPPLIED THE OEM TENSIONER. FAILURE TO DO SO COULD RESULT IN A LOW OIL PRESSURE SITUATION.




I couldnt find an exact spec for the Yami's, you might have to call them if the instructions dont say. I am guessing its going to be about a 1/4 " of slack required though. Best bet is to call them and see what they have to say, they will probably have some advice for you on the best way to block that oil passage too.

hmm, interesting fact I didnt know before...from the APE web site
IMPORTANT: WHEN REPLACING ANY HYDRAULIC OEM TENSIONER WITH A MANUAL TENSIONER, IT IS IMPORTANT TO BLOCK OFF THE OIL PASSAGE THAT SUPPLIED THE OEM TENSIONER. FAILURE TO DO SO COULD RESULT IN A LOW OIL PRESSURE SITUATION.




I couldnt find an exact spec for the Yami's, you might have to call them if the instructions dont say. I am guessing its going to be about a 1/4 " of slack required though. Best bet is to call them and see what they have to say, they will probably have some advice for you on the best way to block that oil passage too.


- jb weld to block off
- it says 1/4 " back off once tight. now tight by hand or with a tool, thats what i dont know. how much pressure should i put before i back it off 1/4 "

No idea. My guess, some will go back, some wont, and some will split there time.

i think im going to split my self :lol
i like the smilies in this forum. :rofl

Dont tighten down with a tool!!...just snug it up to the chain, probably need a wrench on there, but when you feel it getting some pressure that should be good. JB weld scares me in an oil passage like that but if thats what they say then it probably works. Just make sure its as clean as possible.

Dont tighten down with a tool!!...just snug it up to the chain

so by hand until i can not tight it no more and then back it off.

yep, Youll know when its tight, probably best if you have the valve cover off so you can check the chain, that way you know when its tight and your not stretching it.

yep, Youll know when its tight, probably best if you have the valve cover off so you can check the chain, that way you know when its tight and your not stretching it.

motor is on the bike and dont really feel like pulling it out

The valve cover should come off without pulling the motor. But either way. You should be able to do it by feel too.

The valve cover should come off without pulling the motor. But either way. You should be able to do it by feel too.

ill see if i dont like who is coming ill pull them off.

Please keep the post whoring in the proper section.... :) thanks guys :beer

I have the ape on my 99 r1 and it's a great tensioner. Easy to adjust and you don't have to worry about it failing like an auto tensioner. You'll love it.

I have the ape on my 99 r1 and it's a great tensioner. Easy to adjust and you don't have to worry about it failing like an auto tensioner. You'll love it.

sweet, was it that hard to adjust that first time or who did you do it.

so the only benefit is that it wont fail?

No, the true benefit of a manual tensioner is that it maintains a consistent tension on the cam chain under both engine accel and decel giving a more consistent cam timing. And in the case of High compression pistons and aftermarket cams, helps limit the possibility of the pistons hitting the valves due to said cam timing variability.

No, the true benefit of a manual tensioner is that it maintains a consistent tension on the cam chain under both engine accel and decel giving a more consistent cam timing. And in the case of High compression pistons and aftermarket cams, helps limit the possibility of the pistons hitting the valves due to said cam timing variability.

like i always say you learn something new every day

how much pressure is running through that hole that i have to seal, does anyone know. im also scared that the epoxy may drip down. any ideas on how to put it. i have some but ill take opinions. :yes

yes, but the gsxr's fail often and that's why most install them...not have to replace it again and no worries of it failing. With yamah's i don't think it's a huge issues, but with gsxr's the cam chain tensioner fails more often...the ape is nice as you have no worries. Also if you're already in that area, why not...

skipper.. bout time u got around to it. so how did they JB welding go on the oil hole. u can do it without taking off cover, tho i dont recommend it, but start off hair loose side and start bike. i wouldnt rev it hard, just start it and bump throttle. listen for chain noise... if u know what loose chain sounds like. either tighten of loose it to where u feel compfortable and no loose noise on it.

yea on stock ones on some bike on hard decel the cam chain tensioner wont hold enuff tension and can cause chain to become very loose, make noise, or get timing off.... or worse. going to be puttin one on 04 this winter.. i hate stock 04 ones..

skipper.. bout time u got around to it. so how did they JB welding go on the oil hole. u can do it without taking off cover, tho i dont recommend it, but start off hair loose side and start bike. i wouldnt rev it hard, just start it and bump throttle. listen for chain noise... if u know what loose chain sounds like. either tighten of loose it to where u feel compfortable and no loose noise on it.

yea on stock ones on some bike on hard decel the cam chain tensioner wont hold enuff tension and can cause chain to become very loose, make noise, or get timing off.... or worse. going to be puttin one on 04 this winter.. i hate stock 04 ones..



hey bro. well it was not that hard to put the jb weld, i mix it and then waited a second till it got a bit sticky not so liquid and then grabbed with my finger and stuffed it in there. it came out very nice, then to adjust the tensioner, what i did was tighten the bolt with my hands till i couldn't no more and then backed it off 1/4 of a turn. i didn't get around to turn the bike last night but i will today, ill see how it is, im praying that is ok and nothing happens in the process as im scared as hell.
ill let you know how it comes out, if you want give me a call 954 290 3900 that my cell. Gus.

ok done, i started the motor and following the instructions seems to be the best deal.

i thighten the bold by hand till i couldn't go any more, then backed it out 1/4 of a turn and it was great.

to test it, i backed it out about a 1/4 more and there was chain slapping so i put it back to were it was in is awesome :yes

my views about it are IS A MUST. why you may ask, just cranking it made it seem easier, i dont get that race cam sound is just steady. reving it is quick and it goes down quick too. i can not wait to get my suspension so i can ride it around the block and see how it feels and then on dec 2 at the races. :mrgreen

excellent man. glad it worked out easy for you. yep definately more accurate cam timing plus safety of knowing that stock ones wont fail and kill all valves and pistons. im going to put one on this winter.

excellent man. glad it worked out easy for you. yep definately more accurate cam timing plus safety of knowing that stock ones wont fail and kill all valves and pistons. im going to put one on this winter.

thanks dude.