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R1 08 sprocket selection....Please help!!!!

10K views 5 replies 3 participants last post by  James D Grady 
#1 · (Edited)
First post for me so here goes, I have a Yamaha R1 2008 with the following mods, K&N air filter, Iridium spark plugs, Power Commander V, Speed healer, Yoshi 3/4 pipes, Ohlins steering damper, Pazzo break & Clutch levers. I'm not interested in top end speed and more inclined towards bottom end my next mod will be the sprockets and chain.

I have been doing a lot of reading about deferent setups but confused with positive & negative feedback for most of the kits. I am very interested in effortless mono's (wheelies) and bottom end speed so I decided to go with -1/+1 530 Driven front steel Sprocket/Driven Rear anodized aluminium sprocket.

I was informed with this setup I can keep my OEM chain as its still in very good condition. I would really appreciate any feedback/suggestions from the pro's on this forum/subject.
 
#2 ·
Are you asking if down 1 in the front and up 1 tooth in the back will give you easier wheelies? Yes it will but if you are looking to stunt and have effortless wheelies and zero top end then you get into something different
 
#3 ·
Hey Rinn really appreciate your advice, I don't think I'll go as far as stunt riding but would really like to pull some wheelies here and there for fun and also a little extra grunt at take-off.

I read somewhere that gearing changes are not for everyone & the best, cheapest way to find out if its for me, is to mod with 530 front & rear sprockets -1 +1, doing so would allow me to keep the OEM chain for this test.

I also read that If the above mod produces the outcome in the way I like riding my bike, then eventually I could go one better and mod to a 520 chain, all steel sprockets -1 +2 kit, for the ultimate results.

Any further feedback/suggestions on the above are most welcome....Please :)
 
#4 ·
The cheapest option would be to just buy a -2 tooth 530 front sprocket. It would cost you about $25. You will have to move the wheel back a bit to take the slack out from the smaller front sprocket, which is counter productive for wheelies but you will get the 'feel' of the shorter gear ratios and the effects on the top end.
 
#6 ·
-2 at the front is ~ roughly the same as + 3 or 4 at the rear.


The rear sprocket is 2-3 times more expensive than a front, that's why I suggested changing the front only.

What I suggested was counterproductive (for wheelies) was moving the wheel back in order to take out the slack from the smaller front. If you were to buy a larger +3 rear sprocket the wheel would move forward in order to fit the larger sprocket with the same length chain (good for wheelies but more expensive than a front).

Have fun.
 
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